Haldan Borglum | Peak by Peak

Rundle Traverse
August 17 2022

A name that carries a lot of weight in the Bow Valley, the Rundle Traverse follows the numerous peaks along its massif from Canmore to Banff and includes a sizable amount of 5th class often with rappels putting it well within the realm of climbing. It's well known because of its proximity to both towns but also because it's one of the most frequently heli-rescued routes in all of the Canadian Rockies due to its easy access from hikes on either end that get groups in over their head. As a result, it has a particularly infamous reputation and those that take it on should make sure they have the necessary experience, skill, and fitness to get it done.

After preparing for a number of weeks in the summer of 2022 Troy and I went for it and were started by 4am to take advantage of the long summer days. The initial ridge from East End of Rundle starts off tame but slowly ramps up and by the main summit involves low 5th class. Following the high point is the most technical section, involving a few rappels or bypass downclimbs with more serious 5th class sections and routefinding skill necessary.

After that all that's left is to slog up West End of Rundle and the hike out which isn't nothing, so the exit can drag after a long day. For the competent climber the Rundle Traverse can be done without rope, but only for the most experienced and for first timers the routefinding to find all the downclimb bypasses could prove challenging so I'd recommend bringing rope for your first time. Although it's not the toughest traverse in the valley, the Rundle Traverse definitely lives up to the hype and is a chellenging and fun route.

links: STRAVA | GAIA
elapsed time: 14.5hrs
DIFFICULTY: climb - 5.5

Other related trip reports: Inglismaldie to Peechee Traverse | Astley Traverse || Lougheed Traverse | Wind Mountain

The Canmore Mountain List