11000ers of the Canadian Rockies

For those not familiar with Bill Corbett's 11000ers of the Canadian Rockies book, it details a list of the 58 highest mountains in the Canadian Rocky Mountains of Alberta and British Columbia that reach over the height of 11000 feet or 3353 meters. The list boasts technically demanding mountains requiring a large array of mountaineering skills to successfully summit, and while they're not all exceptionally difficult, the titans of the list like Mount Robson, Mount Alberta, and a number of others are no easy feat and put the achievement of completing the list into the realm of the truly committed.

The Canadian Rockies are part of the larger Rocky Mountain range and run from just north of the Canada-US border all the way up to the Liard River 1400km NW in the far north of BC, but the highest peaks reaching above 11000 feet all reside within the southern half of the range. Pursuing the peaks on this list will take you to some of the most beautiful and untouched locations in the Canadian Rockies: from the Columbia Icefield, to Mount Robson Provincial Park, Kananaskis, Lake Louise, the remote corners of BC wilderness, and many places in between. It's not uncommon to have to haul a heavy pack for multiple days to check off some of these giants but for those willing you can expect to be on your own in some truly awe inspiring areas. There's a wealth of places to explore for those looking to test their mettle on the highest peaks the Canadian Rockies have to offer!

I first stumbled upon this list of peaks around 2020-2021 while browsing the legendary Steven Song's trip reports. An amazing group of summits but also intimidating. I remember thinking I would never have the skillset or the gonads to tackle some of the more savage mountains on this list but as I pushed the difficulty of my mountain outings bit by bit over the years those intimidating summits began to look more and more feasible. After summiting my first 11000er, Mount Temple, in 2020 I knew I was hooked, but it wouldn't be for another 3 and a half years that my true 11000er journey began. Once I started checking them off in the spring of 2024 it didn't take long for these lofty peaks to become an all encompassing goal and obsession of mine outside of biathlon.

While the standard route on these peaks never exceed 5.7 climbing, 50 degree snow / ice, or low level mixed climbing, the pursuit of the mountains on this list will subject you to numerous objective hazards out of your control. It's crucial to have a strong understanding of route finding in the mountains and to gather necessary information before each trip so that you know what to expect once you're out there. I had to develop my snow and mixed climbing as I moved into the 11000ers list but the Canmore Mountain List served as an excellent training ground for me to develop the skills necessary to manage the difficulty this list entails. Everyone takes a different path to get there but make sure you're well prepared!

It wasn't long ago when there were still a number of unknowns for peaks like Tsar, Clemenceau, and Tusk without a heli approach in a reasonable amount of time but within the past couple years routes have been established. With every peak on the list now having a well known route it's now simply about finding the window and going for it so the exploratory route pioneering era of the 11000ers may be over, but I'd say the era of speed for this list has just begun.

Alpinists like Kílian Jornet and Ueli Steck are big inspirations of mine, and the way they set huge goals, did the necessary training and planning, and then executed to achieve them is something that I strive for. I didn't start my 11000ers of the Canadian Rockies journey aiming for speed, but fitness developed from over a decade and a half of biathlon training, and a hunger for peak bagging honed from the Canmore Mountain List gave me all the tools I needed to attack this list like no one has yet!

11000ers of the Canadian Rockies Speed Record & Youngest Completionist Attempt:
Return to my 11000er map here.

1. Mount Forbes, June 9 2024
2. Mount King George, June 21 2024
3. Mount Andromeda, June 29 2024
4. Mount Athabasca, June 29 2024
5. Mount Alexandra, July 8 2024
6. Mount Lefroy, July 28 2024
7. Mount Victoria South, July 28 2024
8. Mount Huber, July 28 2024
9. Mount Sir Douglas, August 3 2024
10. Mount Murchison, August 10 2024
11. Mount Cline, August 11 2024
12. Mount Temple, August 18 2024
13. Hungabee Mountain, August 19 2024
14. Lyell 1, Rudolph Peak, August 30
15. Lyell 2, Edward Peak, August 30
16. Lyell 5, Christian Peak, August 31
17. Lyell 4, Walter Peak, August 31
18. Lyell 3, Mount Lyell, August 31
19. Mount Kitchener, April 5 2025
20. Snow Dome, April 5 2025
21. Mount Hector, April 18 2025
22. West Twin, April 25 2025
23. South Twin, April 25 2025
24. North Twin, April 25 2025
25. Twins Twin, April 25 2025
26. Mount Cromwell, April 26 2025
27. Stutfield East, April 26 2025
28. Stutfield Peak, April 26 2025
29. Mount Victoria North, May 14 2025

30. Tsar Mountain, May 22 2025
31. Mount King Edward, May 28 2025
32. Mount Bryce Center, June 5 2025
33. Mount Bryce, June 5 2025
34. Mount Robson, June 8 2025
35. The Helmet, June 9 2025
36. Resplendent Mountain, June 9 2025
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