Lady MacDonald to Princess Margaret Traverse

Lady MacDonald to Princess Margaret Traverse
July 15 2023

Just north of Canmore is the large massif of rock making up numerous peaks including Lady MadDonald, Charles Stewart, Charles Stewart South, Bald Eagle Peak, Nip Peak, and Princess Margaret. I had done all but Nip Peak before going for this linkup but I was keen to do the entire traverse after seeing a few pictures online and with Nip Peak being quite far back this would help to avoid any creek slogging. Just six days after the Anklebreaker Traverse I set back off towards the Charles Stewarts but this time on a very different ridge and with a much better forecast.

An impressive pinnacle along the ridge between Mount Charles Stewart and Princess Margaret Mountain.

That is, a better forecast weather wise, unfortunately by this time of year smoke is often a problem in Canmore cause of all the fires going on so as a result to prevent any damage I wore a smoke respirator for this long day in the alpine until it lifted on Charles Stewart. The day started easily on Lady Mac but things quickly got hands on after passing the summit with a few sections that were definitely low 5th class and would be tedious to bypass for those looking for an easier line. Nip Peak was a slog with not much difficulty but a lot of elevation loss and regain and following that I was back on familiar ground on Charles Stewart South. Following the north ridge direct down towards the next col was probably the most technical part of the day but the rock was solid by rockies standards and after bypassing the rotten south summit ridge of Charles Stewart I was at the summit and on my second last peak of the day.

The ridge from Charles Stewart to Princess Margaret is one of the wildest around Canmore, with jaw dropping spires and a massive relief to the east. The exciting ridge continues as you turn west towards Princess Margaret with a couple hands on sections and then all that remains is getting up its impressive summit block to bag the last peak of the linkup and get out of there! I ended up getting down late and on the bike out in dark conditions I got messed up by a speed bump on the road I couldn't see very easily so watch out biking around Harvie Heights in the dark! Aside from the bike wipeout this was an awesome outing and the pinnacles along the ridge between Charles Stewart and Princess Margaret are definitely one of the coolest sights around Canmore in my opinion, I'll definitely be going back!

links: STRAVA | GAIA
elapsed time: 12hrs
DIFFICULTY: climb - 5.3-5.4